Mysore Market, Part 1

I met with my advisor the other morning and it was, strangely, the most I've even gotten out of an advisor meeting. After I told her what I was doing and what I wanted to do and where I'd been, she seemed very interested in India.

Her: "Have you written about it?"
Me: "Uh, well, I had a blog about it, but I didn't get to write in it much. Internet was spotty, and you know..."
Her: "So you haven't written it all down?"
Me: "No."

--5 minutes later--

Her: "What are you doing over spring break?"
Me: "I'm thinking of maybe visiting my sister in Colorado... why?"
Her: "You really should write it down."

Needless to say, her insistence on my writing about what happened over there has made me feel a little guilty, and therefore, every time I don't have something imminent to write about, I am going to post about something that happened in India.

Like now.

Sometime in mid-November...

I am in Mysore, a city both extremely dry and paradoxically green. It is after a rather extravagant lunch with the group (extravagant in the name of saying goodbye to our Hindi teacher, Sudhir, who appreciates only the finest things in life and chooses such upon given the choice) that Arvind, Taylor, Clara and I are met by a car from the hotel (in the name of apparently continuing extravagance, but at a rate comparable to using auto-rickshaws for the rest of the day). Our first destination is the Mysore market, where we had been only earlier that day.

Immediately after leaving the car, of course, we are bombarded with the usual entrepreneurials, but we find a way into the market where they don't follow.

Everything about this market is a feast for the senses. It is in the old-style of open bazaars that have been in use for centuries--walking down the narrow lane that's been covered over through the middle, you absorb on either side of you brilliant colors and scents. A long pathway of only fruits (hundreds of pounds of bananas, apples, pomegranates, pineapples, coconuts) bleeds into a market for vegetables and herbs, but then you turn a corner and there are great piles of brightly-colored dye in bowls, and across the way are men selling scented oils. The sheer life in the Mysore bazaar is overwhelming, moreso because you can't just senerely peruse the displays or take a moment to pause without becoming the target of the man selling apples or incense; he begins yelling at you, not unkindly but with definite insistence. If you stand in one place a second too long, you become a goal, and there is no creature more persistant than the Indian seller.


We have split up and agreed to meet in twenty minutes, which is all the boys will allow. I dodge the individuals that rush by me and look as determined and focused as I can (which, I am proud to report, is a pretty well-acted look for me at this point). My mission is bangles. Not a hard mission to fulfill in India, but a mission nonetheless amid the bazaar chaos. Luckily I had spotted a place selling some bangles amongst other girly paraphanalia at an intersection meeting the fruit lane, and I had--earlier that day and in a moment of impulsive longing for self-improvement by way of glitz--purchased from the man behind the counter 1) a little bottle of red nail polish, 2) a little glass bottle of nail polish remover, and 3) a small set of glass bangles as a belated birthday gift for Clara. All at a very reasonable price.

I now wanted some glass bangles for myself. But here's the thing about being a big-handed American shopping for bangles in India--Indian women either have or are presumed to have tiny little hands and wrists. My hands are feminine enough but certainly not tiny, and I continually have to convince the bangle sellers of this phenomenon. My size is a 206 to a 208; most bangles max out at 208. My chosen seller doesn't have bangles small enough to fit me, and I end up on the other side of the intersection with a younger seller who is far less cooperative.

"I need a big size," I explain. He nods and selects a few bangles from the box, but I am skeptical. "The biggest. Big American Hands," I indicate my hand and wiggle my fingers. I am speaking in Hindi, which can sometimes piss off non-Hindi speaking South Indians. He takes my extended hand and folds it to prepare it for the bangle fitting. He then tries, with impressive patience, to force the selected bangles over my hand. When they eventually get down to my wrist, my hand is beat red and scratched up and the guy behind the counter seems exhausted. Embarrassed, I point at my hand again and announce that I will not buy these bangles; they are too small.

In his haste in pulling them back over my hand, one of the bangles breaks in one spot and the glass cuts into my hand. The seller is too distracted to notice this, and I walk away with blood noticeably welling up and draining down my hand. This has been unsuccessful and awkward.

For a minute or so I walk around the bazaar, hoping to find the others. I am preoccupied with how to treat my bleeding hand--there is nothing in the bursting market that seems the least bit helpful. And then a little boy runs up, maybe nine years old, holding something he wants to sell. But when he sees my hand, his eyes widen and he looks into my face. "Water!" he says and points at my hand. I nod and then I am following him through the gaps in people and the narrow paths between makeshift shops to a shop he is particularly acquainted with. He communicates rapidly with another boy--maybe fourteen--who seems to be holding down the fort. Then a plastic jug appears and water is poured over my hand. The older boy looks at me and suggests, "A bandage." I nod, and now I am following the older boy back through the jungle of the bazaar until we reach the outside and he somehow navigates across the busy street to a Chemist's at the opposite side. He emerges a moment later with Band-aid, opens it, and puts in over my cut.

I am not sure how to thank him but I must know in my heart that the inevitable is coming: "My brother owns a shop, he makes incense, you come and look."

I am taken to a new location and brought behind the counter and made to sit in a chair as the boy explains to a fellow (perhaps 25, this one) about my epic wound and its maintenance. The brother shows me a bag of powder and shows me the little workshop set up on the floor. "He makes incense," he says. "I will show you how to make it. First you take water, then you roll it in the powder,"--this he does, creating a small brownish paste--"then you roll around the stick. This one is sandalwood." He hands me the finished product.

At this point it is past the meeting time, but I feel bad leaving after getting a private lesson in incense-rolling. I explain my predicament, but the boy is already ahead of me. "I have seen them! One girl, two boys. I will bring them." He is gone.

Sure enough, the three others, all looking confused, are herded into place in front of me as I am in the process of buying a few boxes of 10-rupee Jasmine and White Rose insense.

"I'll explain it later," I tell them as we walk away.